The Pacific islands of New Caledonia - or Nouvelle-Calédonie - have since 1956 been (like the Carribean islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe) one of France’s overseas departments. The territory is curently entitled to elect two deputies to the French National Assembly and one senator to the French Senate in Paris.
Noumea - capital of New Caledonia
A visit to the capital Noumea, described as “a bit of France in the Pacific” should commence at the city’s principal gathering place - Coconut Palm Place. This gracious square has a hundred year old Celeste Fountain in the middle, a band pavilion at its eastern end and strategically placed statues and colourful garden displays in its entirety. Along the north side is the Old Town Hall which today serves as a historical museum.
Just as Australia was for the British, the islands of New Caledonia became for France a dumping ground for its convicts – and it was convict labour that built edifices like St Joseph’s Cathedral with its beautiful stained glass windows. Close to the cathedral are the old Army Barracks, looking almost as grand as they did when completed in 1868.
Further south in the Latin Quarter is the excellent Musee de Nouvelle Caledonie which provides a fine view of Pacific indigenous culture. Next to the museum is the 39 foot high Mwa Ka totem pole, whose carvings represent the eight traditional regions of the island.
Tjibaou Cultural Centre and Aquarium
Two sites the visitor should not miss are
- the Tjibaou Cultural Centre, named for the popular Kanak leader and passionate advocate of independence who was killed in 1989. The Centre combines modern architecture with breathtaking landscaping and provides a fine overview of native (Kanak) sculpture and painting.
- the Aquarium des Lagons which provides for the visitor a beautifully display of New Caledonia's diverse marine life.
Lifou and Loyalty Islands
While Noumea has a strong French influence – the territory’s outlying islands are decidedly Melanesian (Kanak) in character.
About 100 km east of Grande Terre lies an archipelago of coral atolls known as the Loyalty Islands – of which the largest Lifou (50 miles by 15 mile) is in fact the largest coral atoll in the world. The population of about 10,000 for the most part maintain their traditional ways.
Ile des Pins
If one imagines a circular island around 20 kilometres in diameter in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, with lush lowland vegetation, beaches of white powdery sand, seas of the brightest blue and a coastline of extraordinary beauty – one has no better description of Ile des Pins (the Isle of Pines) southernmost of New Caledonia’s islands.
The name originates from the Araucaria conifer trees found all over the island – pine trees that attracted timber hungry Europeans to the island in the first place. In 1853 the island was annexed by France and used as a dumping ground for undesirable convicts.
The native people, descended from clans of Melanesian and Polynesian settlers regained control of their island in 1911 and today, with a population numbering just around two thousand retain for the most part their traditional way of life with its close clan structure.
Travel Tips
- Climate: Tropical average temperatures range from 77 F in January to 66 F in July. The wet season is from December to March
- Shopping: The main shopping district is around Coconut Square on Rue d’Alma. French perfumes, luxury products and local handicrafts are among the popular items.
- Food: There are several good restaurants in Noumea, ideal for those who like to sample traditional French and Kanak specialties - cheeses, wines, local seafood and traditional Melanesian bougna. The local beer (Number 13) is quite palatable.
- Currency: French Pacific Franc
Information: New Caledonia Tourism
Sanjiva Wijesinha - Dr. Sanjiva Wijesinha, Associate Professor at Monash University medical school, writes on health, travel and medical topics.
